First up, it’s uses. This lens is more obvious than others. Yep it’s primarily a portrait lens. Anything that sits at 70mm focal length or higher and maintans wide apertures qualifies as such. L lenses tend to function well in two or sometimes more roles; this lens proves to function decently in one other role. Note that this lens’s main advantage is it aperture. If the lens is stopped down, other L lenses start taking over with better image quality. With this in mind, let’s look at a breakdown of all the other possible uses for this lens:

As a general telephoto: Trying to stop it down and use the lens as an 85mm telephoto for “everyday” use really doesn’t work: the 70-200mm (any of them) produces better sharpness at comparable apertures, equal chromatic abberation, faster AF, and adds more versatility for less price (with the exception that the 85mm has better saturation). One could argue that situations with low light might prove a worthy use for this lens, such as weddings & receptions. In this case there is a tie. The 85mm aperture advantage means usable shutter times in very low light, but you will notice a problem trying to autofocus with this lens (as its AF is known for being not exactly the best/fastest in the industry). The 70-200 f/2.8L IS has a three stop stabilizer, granting an “effective” 70-200mm f/1.4 (only “effective” as your shutter times are still slower than what a true f/1.4 lens would a achieve). So for low light with less action, you’re better off going with the 70-200 f/2.8L IS. With more action (hopefully lateral action not coming towards or away from the lens, stressing its AF) the 85mm will have an advantage.

Usage as a macro: not really. There are much better lenses for this (i.e. the 180mm f/3.5L) The minimum focus distance is too long to garner anything better than a mild macro lens. The only advantage the 85mm has in this regard is it’s extreme DOF at minimum focus. The 180mm f/3.5L only produces an equivalen DOF when it focuses in to 1:4 macro or closer, meaining that the 85mm can achieve its beautiful DOF while encompassing a more “zoomed out” view of a subject, which the 180mm can’t do. However, the 85mm’s image degradation wide open sets it back far enough so that, surprisingly, the 135mm f/2L takes over as your “semi-macro with extreme DOF” lens, which performs much better wide open with an approximately equivalent DOF at minimum focus (and with less weight).

Landscape: yep this works, and this the area other than portraiture that the 85mm f/1.2 functions well in, but only if your objective is to produce ultra-thin DOF images. Otherwise other L lenses fulfill this role with much better satisfaction. Exposures of flowers and foliage work well, along with anything that features an interesting main subject and a background suitably beatiful for being blurred into a wash of color. Once again however, the 135mm competes as a contender in the DOF catagory. All things considered, the 135mm produces better image quality while the 85mm produces a somewhat stronger DOF with a more surreal/dreamy feel to its images.

Portraiture: the main enchilada. No other lens performs portraiture as well as the 85mm f/1.2 under $4000. Female subjects will especially appreciate the dreamy DOF this lens can produce. If you do portraits or wedding work, this lens MUST be in your bag. Mark it up as a necessary business expense and start saving now. If you actually happen to have the $4000 previously mentioned, you may wish to consider the 200mm f/1.8L or the 300mm F/2.8L. They yield an equivalent DOF at their longer focal lengths and deliver superior image quality, but require much more working room and more ambient light.

Lens comparisons:
The 85mm f/1.8 is one of the biggest competitors to this lens in terms of buying decisions. Forget the 100’s of pages worth of forum entries regarding this debate, it boils down to this: you know you need an 85mm portrait lens. Are you a professional or demand the best in image quality? If yes, get this lens. Period. Enjoy the enhanced DOF, build quality, surrealistic/dreamy exposures, transfered dynamic range, and the peace of mind that comes form knowing you bought the best and your images aren’t hindered by your equipment. If no, buy the 85mm f/1.8. Enjoy the additional spending money, lighter weight, faster AF, and additional telephoto usage. That’s all there is to it.

The 85mm f/1.2 Mark I is also a competitor on the used market. Having used both the MkI and MkII variants, I find the ~$300 difference worth it, mainly due to the AF. The MkII’s AF enhancement is nothing short of significant, both the speed and accuracy of the AF have been brought up a notch. This isn’t so much a big deal in the studio as it is in the realm of weddings. As a bonus, the saturation seems somewhat higher as well.

The 50mm f/1.2. This one took me a little while to decide on. $200 less. Much faster on the AF and less cumbersome. The saturation is about equivalent. The sharpness is less. CA is worse. In the end, the 85mm’s more-dreamlike image output and 35mm advantage places it above the 50mm f/1.2 in terms of portraiture.

The 135mm f/2. I hate to say this, but in all reality the 135mm isn’t so much of a competitor as mush as it is a COMPLIMENT to the 85mm. The difference in focal length, AF, IQ, working ranges, and DOF mean that, although they may overlap and compete with each other from time to time in minor usages (the landscape and macro usages mentioned above), the primary uses of the 85mm and 135mm are seperate. It doesn’t seem like it on paper, but once you use both lenses for a little while in the field they fill different roles almost immediately. If you’re a professional in portraiture or weddings, it’s not a question of which one, it’s a question of which one first. (My general recommended order for wedding photog’s: 70-200mm F/2.8L IS, 16-35mm F/2.8L, 85mm F/1.2L, and finally 135mm F/2L.)

The breakdown for this lens:

Usage: Taking portraits of females and children in studio or on-location. Some low-light event photography.

Pros:
-Superior DOF with a ‘dreamy’ feel other lenses can’t produce
-Good saturation (standard compared to other L’s: better than the 70-200)

Cons:
-Weight & price
-AF (still slow compared to other L’s, but significantly better than the MkI)

Other:
-AF is electronic override, requires power to lens in order to function
-Entire main element grouping shifts forward by up to 3/4″ when focusing to minimum distance
-Rear element is flush to base, requires care when lens swapping
-CA when wide open is green shift (odd as most CA shift is usually red)

Summary:
The 85mm f/1.2L MkII is a cumbersome lens, requiring attention and patience, and is surpassed by many lenses in most usages of photography. However, it’s results are simply unmatched within the primary usage of portraiture. It stands alone as an absolute requirement for professionals.
Canon DSLR Cameras

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Pros:

-Affordable!

-Large 8GB capacity

-Class 6 read/write speed (which is the fastest speed currently available)

-Lifetime warranty (at least that’s what the package says

-Transcend is a reputable company that’s been making memory products for a very long time. ( I swear to the tech Gods that I don’t work for them!)

Cons:

- I can’t think of any right now. The closest thing to a “Con” that I can think of is that if you buy this card now, it will probably become cheaper in a month or so No, make that 2 weeks.

IMPORTANT SPECIAL NOTES ABOUT SDHC MEMORY CARDS:

-SDHC cards are not compatible with most older SD cameras, SD devices, or SD card readers.

-SDHC cards are rated by speed using different “classes”. There are currently three data transfer speed classes available for SDHC cards. These classes are “class 2, class 4, and class 6″. For example, “Class 2″ would have the slowest read/write speed while “Class 6″ has the fastest read/write speed. So if you have a device in which speed may play a crucial role, make sure you buy a higher “class” SDHC card. Again, this SDHC card has the fastest read/write speed available right now. Class 6 has a minimum read/write speed of 6mb/sec… while Class 2 has minimum speed rating of 2mb/sec, and Class 4 is 4mb/sec. Starting to see the pattern?

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN “SD CARDS” AND “SDHC CARDS?

SDHC is basically an upgrade to the older SD cards. The reason they upgraded it was to achieve greater data transfer speeds AND capacity than previously possible with normal SD cards… and to do this, they had to redesign the card (which is why it’s not compatible with normal SD devices). This was necessary because digital cameras and digital video cameras these days have higher resolutions, which equate to larger file sizes and faster data transfer needs.

I hope I haven’t confused everybody by going into this much detail, but I can’t help being the nerd that I am. If you are confused, don’t hesitate to comment on this post and I will try my best to answer your questions. Also, any feedback is always welcome!

Conclusion: Buy the card if you have a new device that uses SDHC. It rocks! (This message has been approved by the “Duke of New Mexico”)
Transcend 8 GB Class 6

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After reading you should have a basic idea of which style you need and what to ask about.

The simplest ones are the camera sleeves. They are little more than a textile antistatic sock, where you place your digital camera, but they call it a sleeve, and people feel cooler touching a sleeve rather than a sock. The only thing that saves the sleeve from being a sock is the fact that it is open at both ends. And yes, this means that the sleeve isn’t even a bag at all.

Sleeves afford protection from scratches and keep your digital camera or mp3 player looking new for a longer time. They are good if you plan to carry your camera in a suitcase, or a purse. That is, if you also have a larger camera carrier.

Point and Shoot cameras. Just to make things clear, point and shoot is the name given to the compact digital cameras that do not require much setup before taking a picture. Since they have many automatic functions they are more user friendly because of that. The camera bags that carry point and shoot compacts are called camera pouches.

The camera pouch is more rigid than the sleeve, and thus there is more protection added. The added protection comes at the cost of volume and feel, meaning the camera pouch is bulkier than the sleeve. The sleeve is THE recommended camera bag for compact digital cameras (without interchangeable lenses).

Holsters. Camera holsters are designed to hold one camera with a few accessories. They will usually have small pockets to keep extra batteries, extra memory and a camera cleaning cloth. Most holsters have a wide shoulder strap, and some models include belt loops.

If the size is right, holsters bags are very practical. They keep the camera in sight at all times. They are however impractical for sports which require a lot of mobility, like mountain climbing. However, because of thy are small, they are not so disruptive.

The holsters can fit some of the largest fixed-lens cameras or a non-pro DSLR with a single general purpose lens. This is the most common type of camera bag for ultra-zooms. People who buy DSLR cameras and use them as fixed-lens cameras, can easily manage with a holster.

Most camera bag manufacturers produce holsters. A few also make holsters for DSLR cameras equipped with larger lens. The larger models of Lowepro camera bags also feature all-weather covers to protect against heavy rain. Click here for Lowepro camera bags.

The professional, or DSLR cameras have their own line of bags. They will hold mostly any dSLR camera on the market today and a lens or two. The bags have padded walls, more pockets for accessories, and usually a shoulder strap and many times a quick release buckle and zipper.

Finally, for the professional out there, there is the camera backpack. These are the highest quality carriers and can hold a lot of photographic gear, offering great protection.

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For example, Nikon has several digital underwater products with certain special features for underwater condition. One of the products is CP-4 digital underwater camera from Nikon. What we need to product a great picture of underwater condition is clearness and brightness. Sometime we can?t take a good picture because of water?s condition. CP-4 can be one of solutions to take some cool underwater pictures. Usually, the performance of our digital underwater camera is determined by certain features. Most of digital underwater cameras have limited ability related to the depth.

Nikon CP-4 for example can be brought across underwater up to 40 m or 130 feet depth. In this case, digital underwater camera is different with ordinary digital camera. Digital underwater camera has more complicated system because it uses on unusual place such water. There will be a lot of protection systems within the camera. Nikon CP-4 has special lenses and filter. Furthermore, light is also important element that digital underwater must have considering the limited light in such area. Instead of that, digital underwater camera also has similar features with ordinary digital camera such as zooming facility and auto focus. It has higher level resolution compared to ordinary camera.

Most of digital underwater cameras have expensive price because all the features are special. In addition, digital underwater camera such Nikon CP-4 has automatic mode controls to solve moving difficulty. As we know that we have limited movement in water area. One most important element of digital underwater camera is lenses and filter because sea water can be very dangerous for this kind of gadget. Definitely, you don?t want to break your beloved camera. At least, there are three stuffs that you have to bring to support your digital underwater camera, which are wide angle lenses to catch wider underwater area, red color filter to protect the lenses and keep the picture balance, and also adaptor to give sufficient power on your camera. In conclusion, you know that this is an unforgettable moment and it is a must for you to memorize it in the form of photos by using digital underwater camera.

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The canon powershot a60 camera includes a 2. megapixel sensor which provides you with high resolution. This enables the digital camera to make photos that contain brilliant colours and details. This valuable feature also makes certain the digital camera creates clear and sharp pictures each and every time. With a 3x optical zoom lens its easy for you to capture pictures which are further away. Canon’s powershot a60 digital camera also does not produce blurry images even if you zoom in. Photographs look the same as if the photos were right in front of you instead of being hundreds of ft away. Videos are also free of blurring and they also look as clear and colorful as photos do. The audio quality is also excellent so it’s no problem for one to listen to what’s going on in the video playback as well.

Canon’s powershot a60 digital camera also includes a DIGIC processor that speeds up the entire response time for this digital camera. Therefore enabling you to take multiple photos faster, 2.6 frames per second. This specific processor also enhances the digital cameras colour balance in the picture as well as the exposure of the flash. By simply speeding up the response time of this camera, the battery life is increased. It is a piece of cake for you to alter the cameras mode for specific conditions during the day. For example, there is a night display setting which is specific for capturing images at night or in extremely dark locations. Although the lighting is not very good in these types of areas, the pictures still display great color, detail, and brightness. These settings are quickly altered by using the drop down menus on the smooth screen.

Storing photographs on the digital camera is easily achieved by saving photos to a compact flash memory card. You are able to easily connect these memory cards to the pc by using USB cable and downloaded on to the pc. The canon powershot a60 camera also allows you to directly print your photos by just plugging in this camera directly into a compatible printer. You can read ratings about this item and purchase it at Canon Powershot A60 Digital Camera.

Canon Digital Cameras Review is a great way to learn about all the different cameras, so you can find the digital camera that is perfect for you.

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Like others, I bought the Rebel XT and the 28-135 IS lens. The 28-135 is heavy and priced like a gold brick. I guess it does OK, and I do keep it mounted most of the time.

And like others, I stumbled on this lens somehow, read the raving reviews, and for the price figured, “What the heck?”

This lens in tack sharp. It shows the fire in the colors you photograph. The wide aperture means candles can be excellent lights for portraits. Its narrow field is great.

There are pitfalls though. I snapped a pic of my face at arm’s length using autofocus a while back and (1) the focus locked on the tip of my nose and my face was already blurring (2) the lens was so sharp that I saw blackheads clearly on my nose tip I can’t really see in the mirror (doh!). I’ve read that dSLR images are slightly soft to aid in later editing. I can only imagine what it would do on a film camera.

Yesterday while camping I slapped this lens on. Unlike the 28-135, this one is light enough that I didnt notice I was carrying a camera everywhere. At night I put the lens on the top of the car pointed at the sky, set the shutter for 15 secs, and hit the button. Much to my amazement, the lens not only showed hundreds of stars that were invisible to my eyes, but it also found a galaxy. That pic is on the customer image section of this page. You can see what I saw, but the smaller size doesnt do the lens justice.

One quirk of Amazon is that this page keeps alternating pictures of lenses. This lens does not have the distance focus scales on the outside of it.

Zoom is nice for many things. But where zoom isnt necessary, performance is very, very nice. Performance at $70 is almost too good to be true.

Let me close by repeating what has been said elsewhere and will continue to be said here….IF YOU OWN A SLR, STOP NOW AND GET THIS LENS!

UPDATE 12/06 I have owned this lens for about a year now. Over that time I have immersed myself in photography, workshops, books, tests, etc. I have since upgraded to the 30D and a couple of L lenses, and now have a portfolio strong enough that I am now getting dollar signs thrown at me that I didnt even see coming. I say all this to give you some perspective on what I will write afterward.

Now that Ive really learned the difference, I can agree with others that it is a tad soft wide open, but that is to be expected. I read a lens test recently that put the 1.8 against Canons heavweight L glass, and, not surprisingly, the L beat out the $70 plastic wonder in most categories. What might surprise you, however, is that when the lens was tested at F 8 it BEAT THE L GLASS in sharpness! As one that has felt the pain of trading large sums of money for L glass, that still amazes me.

My 28-135 has since joined my kit lens in the garage. The 1.8 is still in my case with my newer 30D.

With some experience under my belt I now would make the following recommendation. Right now, as you read this, you may have an idea if you’ve been bitten by the photog bug. You may know that this beast is going to morph into something more than a simple pasttime. If you look inside the depths of your aspirations and you know that you are going to be a serious amateur, bite the bullet and get the 50mm 1.4. Trust me on this one. Eventually you’ll end up getting it anyway, so just apply the $70 to the 1.4 now.

If you’re just exploring different areas of SLR photography, you cant go wrong with this lens. Case in point- as of this writing the baby in pink in the customer images section of this lens is one of the top-ten rated images of all pics uploaded on Amazon! This lens will allow you to dazzle friends and relatives used to snapshots from point & shoots. It will be the start of what you upgraded to a DSLR for in the first place. For you, the 1.8 is still, by far, the best value in photography!
Best Value in Photography!:

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I’ve had the T1i for about almost week now and after some extensive use, here are my thoughts:

1. 15.1 megapixel sensor. Yes, the high megapixel count is impressive, but keep in mind that, as you approach higher resolutions, you need to ensure the lens on the SLR can resolve that much detail. Sadly, the included 18-55mm IS lens is functional, but the high resolution really shows the so-so quality of the lens. Even if taken at the proper focus, pictures can appear soft with this kit lens. Shots I have taken with Canon EF-S 17-85mm and EF 70-200mm L lenses are crisp. I don’t have any gripes on image quality. There are some issues with noise on the higher ISOs that don’t seem to show up on the Nikon digitals, but overall, the quality is amazing for the price. Skin tones, textures, colors are reproduced very accurately.

2. Digic 4. The Digic 4 processor appears to process/save the 15 megapixel images in the same time (if not faster) than the Digic III processor on the XSi (even in RAW+Jpg mode). I have also noticed that at higher ISOs, the sensor and the Digic 4 produce images with less overall noise compared with its predecessors.

3. LCD. The 920,000 pixel LCD screen is large (3″), crisp, vibrant and fully visible even in bright sunlight. In comparison, the Canon XSi SLR (which the T1i replaces), also has a 3″ LCD, but with 230,000 pixels. The viewing angle is great as well and the LCD can easily be seen nearly 180 degrees around.

4. ISO 12800. Canon and Amazon are correctly identifying that the T1i maxes out at ISO 3200. Some less reputable dealers are listing an ISO 12800, which you should disregard. The ISO 6400 and 12800 settings are expanded ISO settings. The pictures taken on these two settings are ISO 3200 images pushed to ISO 6400 or 12800 by the Digic 4 chip before saving to the memory card. These pictures are extremely grainy and contain a lot of noise to the point of only being usable as for snapshots or adding an artistic effect to certain compositions.

5. Penta-mirror. That Canon is still using one in the T1i is disappointing. The penta-mirror viewfinder image is functional, but still noticeably darker than that of the penta-prism viewfinder in the Nikon D90 (which is the T1i’s main competitor). I really would have preferred if Canon had kept the XSi’s 12.2 megapixel sensor, forgone 1080p video altogether, and maybe upped the cost of the camera slightly to cover the production cost of using a penta-prism in the T1i. Honestly, unless you are massively cropping your images, or creating large photos, the difference between 12.2 and 15.1 megapixels really is negligible.

6. Size. This is the same body as the XSi, and therefore a bit on the smaller side compared to other digital SLRs. I have small hands, so the T1i is comfortable for me. If you have big hands, I can see this being a very difficult camera to use over an extended period of time. If you haven’t handled a Canon XT, XTi or XSi, I would suggest you go to a store and hold the T1i yourself before purchasing it online. (I will upload a picture of the T1i in my hands to the user gallery for a size reference.)

7. HD Video. Yes, the Canon marketing department made a horrible marketing decision and pushed the T1i onto shelves limiting the 1080p recording to 20fps (frames per second). Recognize this as a marketing gimmick that allows them put a 1080p sticker on the camera box. The 1080p @ 20fps is fine most times, but seems a choppy if you have a lot of action in the frame or are panning quickly. The T1i’s 720p video is recorded at 30fps and is clean, smooth, and sufficient for all but the most discerning consumers. One major criticism though is that the sound is recorded in mono, AND there is NO input for an external microphone.

A lot of pre-production reviews of the T1i criticize its inability to automatically autofocus while recording. I wouldn’t put much weight in this criticism, mostly because neither of the other two SLR cameras with HD recording capabilities (Canon 5D Mark II and Nikon D90) can automatically autofocus while recording either. What you can do with the T1i is pan/zoom the lens and then press the AE lock (*) button to make the camera autofocus on the new subject (all while recording). A problem with using the AE lock button to have the camera autofocus is that the microphone for the camera is on the front upper left of the body near the lens mount. Therefore, the lens motor noise is picked up just as much as ambient sounds. Even with my quietest Canon USM (ultasonic motor) lenses, this lens motor sound is pretty loud in video playback. Although, remember, you can always manually turn the focusing ring on the lens to get your subject back into focus. It’s not easy, but after a little practice, it’s not all too hard, either.

Ultimately, you shouldn’t let the HD recording limitations sway you one way or the other. This is an SLR camera — not a video camera. The HD video is a great feature, but if you’re looking for something primarily to take video, look elsewhere. There are much better, cheaper VIDEO cameras out there which can record true 1080p.

8. Record button. For some reason, the record video button is next to the LCD screen (the same button used for direct printing). The first few times you take video, you’ll intuitively find yourself using the shutter release button used to take pictures. The reason for this switch is that you can take a still picture while recording video, although, doing so will interrupt the recording.

9. Battery life. My first fully charged battery only lasted about 250 shots (no flash), but all charges since have given me in the range of 500-700 shots per charge. I’m guessing the first charge had such a short life because I spent quite a bit of time learning the camera, its menus, and settings.

10. Live View. I honestly can’t review this as I haven’t used it too much yet — I prefer using the viewfinder. One feature I can say is nice is that, on the LCD, you can digitally zoom in (up to 10x) on a section of your shot to ensure it is properly focused. This, and the fine focusing, can really help if you’re into macro-photography.

11. HDMI cable. The T1i has an HDMI Type C output on the body to allow you to directly display pictures and video on an HDTV. A minor criticism is that the HDMI Type C cable is not included in the box. You have to buy it separately. It would have been nice if it were included, as it’s not an expensive cable.

Conclusion. The T1i is a bit on the light end, yet the construction still feels solid. For the camera’s price point, you’d be hard pressed to find any digital SLR out there which gives you all the capabilities and growth range of the Canon T1i. The camera is intuitive enough for those new to photography to pick and learn easily, yet configurable enough for advanced amateurs. If video is not a big deal for you, then get the Canon XSi. There is very little the T1i has (other than ISO 3200 and a sharper screen) that the XSi doesn’t. Plus, with the release of the T1i, you can probably pick up a used XSi for a great price on eBay. My wife recently gave birth, and I’m not looking to record endless (never to be watched) tapes of video footage of our son, but I do want several minute clips of him as he grows through the years. I’ve always been more inclined towards photography, so this camera gives me a very versatile digital SLR that I need with the wonderful capability of recording HD video that I want.
Canon EOS Rebel T1i 15.1 MP

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One very popular digital camera accessory is a tripod. Regardless of whether they’re designed to stand on the ground, or on a table top, tripods make certain that any kind of video taken will be steady instead of jerky, and it makes it handier to take longer videos, since the videographer doesn’t have to hold the digital camera in place for long times. Tripods range in price from $10 to around $100, so you can find one in about any price range. Take a look at Gorillapod tripods, too. They have flexible arms that can secure your camera to almost anything.

One of the most useful digital camera accessories is an additional battery. Having a battery run-down at a crucial point in a video shoot can be quite a hassle, unless of course there are back-up batteries available. You will have to get one to match the precise model of video camera, because all of them require different batteries. By providing batteries to the video photographer in your life, you are really giving the gift of time savings. It’s a great accessory to treat yourself to as well.

Extra memory cards are very useful digital camera accessories. Several cameras can take more than one kind, nevertheless , you should check the model number to be certain. If you, or the person you’re purchasing for don’t have a built-in computer card reader, you’ll be able to buy card readers that attach to the USB port. These are extremely handy for transferring video to other people’s computers, where there might or might not be a card reader built in.

For around $20 you can get a power adapter for the hugely well-known Flip video cameras. These will charge up a flip camera in 2 to 3.5 hours, in addition they are compact and fold up more compactly so they will have absolutely no trouble fitting in a pocket, purse, or camera case.

One more fantastic tiny item is the Nikon 7072 Lens Pen Cleaning System. It is a pen shaped device which can be used to clean lenses on video cameras, telescopes, or binoculars. It contains a soft, retractable brush, plus a non-liquid cleaning compound on the tip created from chamois. It is perfect for getting finger prints, dirt, and also debris off a lens and costs about $10.

Attachable LCD shades are great digital video camera accessories. They come in sizes to fit 2.5 and 3 inch LCD screens and can be had for below $20. They make taking video outside in vivid conditions much easier on the eyes by shading the LCD screen to ensure that it turns up better.

Digital video camera accessories are more than fun little add-ons. They are able to truly make it more convenient to make use of a digital camcorder, and are welcomed by all digital video aficionados. Digital video camera accessories vary in cost from below $10 to around $100, so you are certain to get something in your favored budget range. They are actually excellent presents, even though the recipient is you! For more info regarding digital video cameras, go to cheap video cameras

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Firstly, use a site that will give you access to a sellers details without having to be a member such as Cam-Trader for all Second Hand Cameras People intent on using fraudulent means to grab your money dont like these kinds of site because they cannot remain anonymous and therefore the risk of being caught by law enforcers is very high. People that are genuine sellers have no qualms about giving contact details. Make sure that to be a member of such sites, that the seller is validated and cannot place items for sale unless they are validated. This is a safety backup if things do go wrong and action needs to be taken against a seller.

Secondly, do NOT part with any money until you are totally satisfied that the seller is genuine, that you have the right answers to questions you asked, and that you are prepared to accept that the item IS as advertised. The typical fraudster will ask for money orders or cash transfers because they are virtually untraceable. Find sellers that have a proper outlet or have paypal accounts that are verified. Its easy to trace
these people if things do go wrong in the transaction and you will have a paper trail leading to the person should you need to take any legal action.

Ok, so now you can trust the seller, but, is the item he/she is selling exactly as advertised? Is it in the condition as stated, is the price a fair one for the item?

Don’t know? … well ask! Genuine sellers have no objection to answering questions about the item they are selling. Not sure if the images provided are of the actual item? Same answer, Ask! Watch out for the “stock photo” ads, they could just be lazy or they could be trying to hide a huge dent in the camera body. Ask for additional pictures if you are not satisfied. Ask if the images are of the actual item being sold.

Once you are happy that the item is as described, look at delivery costs. Some sellers will deliberately keep the item price a little lower and then overcharge for delivery of the item to make it appear a very good bargain. Again, if costs of delivery are not stated, ask before you commit yourself to buy. The ask yourself, could I go to my local outlet and buy this item for less than the total price including delivery?

Bear in mind that no person in business is likely to be giving an item away without making a small profit at least.

When buying Used Cameras or any other Photographic Item, there are a few direct questions you can ask the seller to determine whether it is a good buy or not.

1) Why are you selling it? (if an individual)
2) Are there any scratches on the glass of the lens?
3) Does the camera have a shot counter ?
4) What year was it made?
5) Does it come with a case or bag?
6) Is it refurbished and do you give any guarantees?
7) What are your returns ploicy, terms and conditions?

Of course, when you ask questions you will need to know the technical specifications to ensure that the answers are correct. You can look up camera reviews and read them carefully. Alternatively take some guidance from a friend who knows something about photography and camera equipment.

If you intend spending some of your hard earned cash on Used Cameras it is well worth taking the time to check out what you should be getting for your money. If you have doubts about a seller or the item they are advertising then walk away.

Remember this phrase… Buyer Beware, is the seller being fair?

There will be plenty of other items to choose from so whats the rush? If you believe that the seller is not
as he describes or his item is not described correctly, then look for a “Report this item to Admins” link like the one on Cam-Trader for all Second Hand photographic accessories

I hope that I haven’t put anybody off buying Used camera Equipment or any accessories, as this is a growing market where even the most basic amateur can get a lot of enjoyment from taking photographs.

Enjoy your hobby

John Jones
Joint CEO
Cam-Trader

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I will tell you a short story about my step-son called Jim who is an avid amateur photographer. Jim wanted to buy an additional lens for his Nikon D60 camera. So, he set about the internet using search engines and came up with lists of camera shops, traders and shop sites, BUT after 3 days of searching he gave up. He wanted a second hand lens of a specific type as his budget wouldnt alow him to buy new.

Very dissappointed, Jim approached me and asked if it was possible to design a site that would help with this sort of shopping. I could not believe how few sites actualy had adverts directly leading to a seller. Most were directories or lists of oputlets from here to Timbucktoo. I love a challenge and set about designing the site.

Well, to cut a long story short, I designed Cam-Trader.com, a unique site for the introduction of buyers to sellers of Used Cameras

After a couple of months developing a site that was easy to use, cheap to advertise and without any annoying final selling fees. Cam-Trader for 2nd Hand Cameras was born. At the end of January 2010 We launched Cam0Trader.com and already dealers have started to put items for sale on the site.

Thats the why, now let me tell you about Cam-Trader.com. The site is a dedicated classified ads site for Photographic Accessories The site is very easy to navigate and you can advertise Used Photgraphic Equipment from only 19p for 30 days. Higher rates apply to longer periods and there are additional features that can be added to make your item for sale stand out in the crowd. Renewal options are availbale, so no need to repeat the ad submission.

I initially thought that this was a good idea for the UK, but I was wrong. We are getting enquiries from all over the world even though the site is new. A person in Australia contacted one of our Dealers and wanted the item shipped out. An Amercian buyer placed a deposit on an item and is collecting it when he comes to the UK later this year. You could have knocked me over with a feather.

So, what about the UK ? Well, after the first week of trading we now have many members who are currently putting items on the site for sale. Dealers and shops love the site, because we gave them a facility to place a URL link directly to their site or item, which gives them free backlinks and helps with their SEO too. Joining is a breeze too. It takes one minute and is TOTALLY FREE. You join even if you dont have anything to sell. Of course you can see the items for sale and buy them, without needing to be a member. To advertise you must register as a member.

And finally, to show our appreciation to the dealers and traders and individuals that join Cam-Trader.com we are giving a promotional code of pb100 which, makes advertising, at least until the end of March 2010 TOTALLY FREE (even with added photos,extended periods, bold, italics, and highlighted features.

Have a look at the site, you have nothing to lose.

John Jones
Joint CEO
Cam-Trader.com

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